1985 Lap Rialto 2 (hopefully a more concise version of it) - this may take me time to update it.

Coolant temp approx 2 minutes after I had turned the engine off. I had to undo the radiator cap very slowly so that I didn't get scalded by the hot coolant within the cooling system.





I guess that the coolant's surface/radiator temperature was slightly cooler when I measured it, so I guess that the coolant temperature was 82˚C when I took the pic of the temperature gauge.

I may continue to run it with the 82˚C thermostat for now.

Having said that others on Reliant World had advised me to fit the 88˚C thermostat as recommended by Reliant and may do that if the coolant temperature appears to be a bit too low and/or condensation forms within the oil filler/breather cap, rocker cover and/or breather hose.

19th August 2013 to 7th September 2013

Head gasket blew after 8,000 miles

19th August 2013 to 7th September 2013

Cylinder block coolant drain hole's thread stripped.




Old cylinder block coolant drain plug (now useless)




Cylinder head cleaned up and it's still straight




Cylinder block cleaned up:-




Cylinder block coolant drain hole's thread retapped to 1/8" NPNT (1/8" gas) and new 1/8" brass drain plug in place




Current head gasket fitted to it (and it's still fine nearly 5,000 miles later)






I decided to leave the oil and waterway holes alone so that I didn't make the same mistake as last time.



Engine re-assembled:-

Replaced wiper spindle bushes

Hi everyone,

I managed to source a couple of alternative bushes/seals from eBay to replace my Rialto 2's knackered wiper spindle bushes (and I'll also replace my Rialto SE's wiper spindle bushes as it leaks water through the wiper spindle). Anyway, here are some pics......


New PU seal (9mm high, 16mm inner diameter) on the left and the old outer bush on the right:-




New hard rubber suspension bush (16mm high, 16mm inner diameter) on the left and the old knackered inner bush on the right:-

[​img]https://2img.net/h/i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/phade1971/My%20Rialto%202%20Estate/IMG_0119-4.jpg[/img]


New alternative outer wiper spindle bush fitted to the car:-

[​img]https://2img.net/h/i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/phade1971/My%20Rialto%202%20Estate/IMG_0113-4.jpg[/img]


New washer hose fitted (new alternative inner wiper spindle bush also fitted to the car, above the wheel box and hidden from view):-

[​img]https://2img.net/h/i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/phade1971/My%20Rialto%202%20Estate/IMG_0116-4.jpg[/img]

I can't seem to get the IMG tags to work correctly.

Reposted pics....

New hard rubber suspension bush (16mm high, 16mm inner diameter) on the left and the old knackered inner bush on the right:-




New alternative outer wiper spindle bush fitted to the car:-




New washer hose fitted (new alternative inner wiper spindle bush also fitted to the car, above the wheel box and hidden from view):-

9th May 2014

Speedometer head/speedometer cable problems:-

Hi everyone, a quick update....

About a couple of months ago, my Rialto 2's speedometer cable became faulty (Smiths end was broken and the speedometer was bouncing all over the place and inaccurate). I replaced it with a brand new one and the fault remained. I then could have only assumed that the speedometer head became faulty.

I managed to source another B axle speedometer head from Chg Performance and fitted it. That speedometer works properly (above 20 MPH), so I then sent off my Rialto 2's original speedometer to (so-called) Speedy Cables to get it fixed (I will pester them again today).

I eventually found out a few days ago (from Atodini and madvanman) that I could have solved the bouncing speedometer problem with a right angled MGB speedometer drive and a new speedometer cable. I fitted one earlier today, but the main problem now is the speedometer cable is too long and I am bidding on a shorter Kitten/Fox speedometer cable. Anyway, I'll let the pics do the talking...

MGB right angled speedometer drive fitted (with the spacer washer at the gearbox en




Rialto/Robin speedometer cable fitted - note that speedometer cable is far too long (I'm trying to get a shorter Kitten/Fox speedometer cable for my Rialto 2) and part of it is now next to the fuel pump:-










The speedometer still bounces at low speeds, but hopefully that could be down to the fact that I haven't fitted a brand new (as in never used) cable to it (yet).

11th May 2014

Speedometer now (almost) works properly


Hi everyone,

I decided to try my spare brand new (Rialto/Robin - 54" long) speedometer cable and a larger plastic P clip so that it doesn't become too tight against the cable.

The speedometer itself almost works properly. It's needle now bounces a bit at speeds of 10 mph or less, but at least I can live with that for now.

(I will be pestering Speedy (very slow) Cables on Monday as I could not get hold of them on Friday as they have now taken 2 months to fix my Rialto's original speedometer.)

This is how the speedo cable is routed at the moment:-

16th May 2014

I didn't expect to see my Rialto 2's original speedometer again - at last it's been fixed by Speedy Cables nearly 2 months later !!!

Hi everyone,

Another quick update. My Rialto 2's original speedometer has finally been fixed by Speedy Cables (nearly 2 months later) and I have now refitted it to my Rialto 2. I took it for a drive and it's almost right. It sticks slightly at about 3 MPH when coming to a stop but that's about it really (I can easily live with the speedometer occasionally varying by about 0.5 MPH).

My Rialto 2's original speedometer as it came back from Speedy Cables (about £94 later):-








My Rialto 2's original speedometer and it's temporary speedometer side by side:






Original speedometer refitted:-




Update:-

The speedo still bounces up and down a bit until 20MPH but hopefully I'll soon be able to sort that by lubricating another brand new (Kitten) speedo cable that I have got in the garage with graphite powder (as Atodini has suggested) and see if that will cure it.

The slow and arduous task of MOT Preperation for my Regal, nothing serious, just lots of niggles as you get with such an Old Car.

Speedometer update:-

I decided to try out Atodini's suggestion of removing the wet cable grease (from another brand new speedometer cable I had in stock), relubricated it with graphite powder and it worked.

The speedometer is now absolutely rock steady from 0 MPH.

Current speedometer cable router

Hi everyone,

This is how my Rialto 2's speedometer cable is currently routed. (I didn't have time to take pics before I fitted a new speedometer cable, removed the wet lube from it and relubricated it with graphite powder).

Fixed my Rialto 2's gearbox (1st/2nd gear selection)

Hi everyone,

I fixed another problem that has happened on my Rialto 2 recently. It decided not to stay in 1st nor 2nd gear anymore, but thankfully it turned out to be a gear selector spring.

I also created an access hole and panel to make any future possible jobs around the top of the gearbox a lot easier. Anyway, I'll let the pics do the talking.

Gearbox/propshaft tunnel as it was:-








Mockup access panel in place:-




Access hole cut out with spire clips. I had to enlarge the holes in a few places so that I could get the spire clips in place and refit the gearbox top cover correctly:-




Access panel in place:-




Gearbox top cover removed. The cause of the 1st/2nd gear selection (and won't stay in) problem is now apparent - broken spring:-






The rest of the gearbox is in good condition and show no signs of damage nor wear:-






Gearbox top cover being re-assembled with new springs, 1st/2nd gear ball bearing (I could not remove the 3rd/4th nor the reverse gear selector ball bearings) and new top gearbox cover gasket:-








Foam tape stuck onto the access panel to prevent vibration and draughts getting into the car:-




Centre console re-assembled:-

Hi everyone,

A few weeks ago my Rialto 2's speedometer decided to stop working and eventually found out the cause of it. In short, the right angled drive decided to partially seize and it cause one of the speedometer drive's gear teeth to partially break off and it had also badly cracked the speedometer drive's shaft.

Anyway, I'll let the pics do the talking.


Partially siezed and very gritty/notchy right angle speedometer drive (gearbox end):-





Decent NOS speedometer cable fitted with a far better speedometer head clip as it fits the speedometer head properly:-




I then removed the gearbox's speedometer drive and found that the ball bearing was in place but it's oil seal was missing:-






After I had removed the damaged speedometer drive, I decided to compare the decent NOS speedometer drive (with a sqaure cable end that extends right up to the end of the shaft) next to the damaged NOS speedometer drive and my Rialto 2's original speedometer drive:-




Looking at the pics, you'll see that the decent NOS speedometer drive's square (rather than partially square) end fits the NOS speedometer cable perfectly. The other two speedometer drives' cable ends provide a very loose fit due to the larger inner diameter of the square crimped part of those speedometer drives, hence bouncing speedometer needles at low speeds:-




Damaged NOS speedometer drive (partially smashed tooth and cracked shaft):-









NOS speedometer cable fitted without the right angle speedometer drive:-








I then took it out for a test drive and the speedometer now works perfectly (in fact as well as it did when the right angled speedometer drive was fitted).

Hi everyone,

I originally planned just to carry out my Rialto 2's 6,000 mile service, but I ended up doing more work than I expected. Anyway, I'll the pics do the talking:-


Ignition coil's positive terminal now wired to the fuse box (unfused ignition live terminal, opposite the green wires) as the ignition switch's run position became faulty:-









Front brake shoes as they were (half of the lower liner fell onto the floor !!):-






Old front brake shoes removed:-








Front brakes back plate cleaned up:-




New front brake shoes fitted:-




Front wheel bearings replacement:-






New felt seal and old felt seal's retainer fitted:-




Old exhaust system removed:-









NOS (originally supplied by Reliant) stainless exhaust fitted:-










Engine running with the NOS stainless exhaust system (the engine is actually a lot quieter than it sounds in the YouTube video):-



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPhodXxGVzc

Stainless exhaust silencer:-

Hi everyone,

I have repaired my Rialto 2's Lucas LRA100 alternator (after the charge warning light's flag terminal decided to fail) and replaced it's starter motor (the year and 4 month old Lucas-TVS starter motor's bendix has started to stick and doesn't feel good either). Anyway, I'll let the pics do the talking.....

LRA100 alternator as it was:-




Rectifier doesn't look very well:-






Brushbox as it was (I decided to clean it up with dry cotton wool buds):-




Old regulator (I think it was ok, but I decided to replace it anyway as I had a brand new one):-




Slip rings (I decided to clean them up with liquid Brasso and cotton wool buds):-




Rectifier's solder connections to the alternator's stator (before replacing the rectifier):-






Old (dying) rectifier:-








Old and new rectifiers side by side:-




I managed to replace the rectifier with the alternator in situ, but it was a horrible job. Anyway, this is what the new rectifier looks like after I had fitted it:-






Slip rings cleaned:-




Brush box refitted:-




Alternator rear cover refitted:-




Existing alternator wiring loom refitted. This will need to be replaced fairly soon even though the flag terminal I had replaced seems to be ok:-




Alternator working properly:-





Old (1 year and 4 months old) Lucas-TVS starter motor. It's bendix has decided to stick and generally doesn't feel right either:-








Rebuilt UK Lucas and Lucas-TVS (indian Lucas) starter motors side by side:-






Rebuilt UK Lucas starter motor fitted:-

Alternator loom and alternator replacement

Hi everyone, I had to replace the alternator's wiring loom as it was shot and the alternator (I think it's rectifier has been fried) as I managed to get the car 60 miles home last night with the wiring loom fault. Anyway, I'll let the pics do the talking:-

Old alternator loom, which was beyond repair:-








New alternator wiring loom fitted:-








Old Lucas LRA100 alternator (I think it's bearings may also need to be replaced as they are noisy):-




New Lucas A127 alternator fitted:-






Carburetter's "flame trap" gutless vacuum hose secured with cable ties for now. I plan to replace that stuff with new 2.5mm nitrile hose from AFS.

Replaced the carburetter's short lengths of vacuum hose with 2.5mm rubber hose

Hi everyone, I've decided to replace my Rialto 2's short lengths of vacuum hose as the old ones felt loose and gutless.

New 2.5mm short lengths of rubber hose fitted to my Rialto 2's carburetter's vacuum advance port, vacuum pipe and "flame trap":-






"Flame trap" (and it's clip) repositioned so that it will now stay in place:-

Postive battery terminal to starter motor's solenoid wire replacement time

Hi everyone, I had great fun during the weekend trying to find out why my Rialto 2's "old" Lucas TVS and the new Prestolite starter were barely turning at all and flattening the battery.

I eventually traced that fault to the knackered battery positive terminal to starter motor's solenoid lead (about 2 hours later). Using one of my 12V jump start packs helped me to trace that fault.

Anyway, I'll let the pics do the talking.

New battery positive terminal to starter motor's solenoid (very fat) wire fitted (I managed to get it from my local motor factor).










It took me about 2 hours of cutting the inner diameter of the new battery terminal with a cone cutter, cutting fluid and then filing it with a half round needle file before it would fit the battery.


The old original positive terminal to starter motor's solenoid wire before I threw it in the bin.










The original red Reliant battery positive terminal to starter motor's solenoid looks pretty puny compared to the new one.

Replaced my Rialto 2's broken "Lucas" distributor cap

Hi everyone, I think I have finally got to my Rialto 2's untraceable slight "pinking"/rattling problem under load which was a broken distributor cap.

I was surprised my Rialto 2 ran as well as it did and I didn't discover the broken distributor cap until I changed it's spark plugs during part of it's 12,000 mile service (I'll be doing the rest of it's 12,000 mile service after the National Rally).

Anyway, I'll let the pics do the talking:-

Broken "Lucas" distributor cap:-








New Beru VK251 distrubor cap fitted:-